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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.231



To win a retriever Amateur Field Championship: The dog must win a
National Championship stake handled by an amateur, win a National
Amateur Championship stake, or a total of 10 points in Open All-Age,
Limited All-Age, or Special All-Age Stakes (amateur handled).  Or they
can win 15 points in any All-Age stake (amateur handled).  Again, dogs
get 5 points for first place, 3 points for second place, 1 point for
third place, and .5 point for fourth place.  Again, at least five of
the points must come from a trial open to all retrievers (not a
specialty trial) and the dog has to win a first place.


E.  Tracking.

For tracking tests in general, the tracking leash shall be between 20
and 40 feet in length, and shall be visibly marked at a point 20 feet
from the dog; the handler shall follow the dog at no less than 20
feet.

Guiding (behavior by the handler which influences or determines the
dog's direction) isi prohibited.  Handlers may give verbal commands
and encouragement to the dog.  However, commands, signals or body
motions to indicate the specific location or track direction is
prohibited.

Motivational items (food, balls, toys, etc) are not to be used or
carried within 75 yards of a track.

1.  TD: Tracking Dog

To enter a TD test, dogs must be at least 6 months old and be
certified.  Certification (which is obtained by the dog passing a
regulation track for an AKC Tracking judge) must take place within a
year of the test date.

Each individual track is 440 to 500 yards long, and is aged from 30
minutes to 2 hours.  It is rare for tracks to be aged more than 1
hour.

Three to five turns shall be used, at least 2 of which shall be 90
degree turns.  Each leg shall be at least 50 yards in length, and the
first turn must be more than 30 yards from the second of two starting
flags (which are themselves 30 yards apart).

2.  TDX: Tracking Dog Excellent.

The purpose of the TDX test is to "show that the dog unquestionably
that the dog has the ability to discriminate scent and possesses the
stamina, perserverance, and courage to do so under a wide variety of
conditions. ... It [the track] can lead anywhere a person might go."

A TDX test track is 800 to 1000 yards long, and three to five hours
old. It has five to seven turns, and the first turn is open. The start
consists of one flag (you and your dog get to figure out which way it
goes).  There are at least two obstacles (roads, streams, fences,
changes in terrain, changes in vegetation, etc.), and there are two
pairs of cross tracks that are approximately 1 1/2 hours fresher than
the primary track.  There are also four articles, all of which must be
found -- one at the start, two along the way, and one at the end.


E.  Herding.

My thanks to Lily Mummert for the information in this section.

In general, for herding tests:

  * Dogs have to be 9 months old to compete in AKC herding events.
  * A dog is not required to have an HT before competing in Pre-Trial,
    or to have either test title before competing in trial classes.
    Testing is recommended, however.
  * Not all herding events are listed in the Gazette currently, but an
    updated list is sent out with each issue of the Herdsman (the AKC
    herding newsletter). The reason the info isn't in the Gazette is
    because of its long lead time. The AKC is trying to modify the
    publication schedule of the events calendar so they can get
    herding event info in there in a more timely fashion.

1. Titles

HT: Herding Tested
PT: Pre-trial Tested
HS: Herding Started
HI: Herding Intermediate
HX: Herding Excellent
HCH: Herding Trial Champion

Test classes: herding and pre-trial.  These are pass/fail. If your dog
passes two herding tests under two different judges, it earns the HT
(Herding Tested) title. Similarly, the dog earns the PT (Pre-Trial
Tested) for passing two pre-trial tests under two different judges. For
both classes, you get 10 minutes to negotiate the course.

Herding test elements:
- a sit or down stay at the start,
- controlled movement of the stock between two pylons, located at
   opposite ends of the ring.  Includes two changes in direction.
- stop and recall at the end

Pre-trial test elements:
- a stay at the start
- controlled movement of stock, including a change of direction and
  passage through four gates
- a stop at some point on the course
- a stop before penning the stock
- penning the stock

Trial classes: herding started, intermediate, and advanced.  The
titles associated with each of these levels are HS (Herding Started),
HI (Herding Intermediate), and HX (Herding Excellent).  For each of
these titles, the dog must earn three qualifying scores in the
appropriate class under three different judges. There's also the HCH
(Herding Champion), which is a competition title -- the dog must have
an HX, and then earn 15 championship points in the Advanced class.

There are three courses that may be offered for each class. The
premium list for a trial specifies which course(s) will be offered.
Course A is in an arena. Course B is a modified ISDS course; it's in a
field. Course C is a modified version of what is used in Europe; it
includes negotiating roads and such.

According to my instructors, Course A is the most widely used of the
three, so I'll describe that one.  You get 10 minutes on this course,
regardless of class.  For herding started, the dog lifts the stock at
the top of the course, and moves them through four obstacles around
the course in a predetermined order. The obstacles are chutes or gates
of various kinds. The dog then pens the stock.  For the intermediate
class, there's an outrun, lift, and fetch, with the handler staying at
a handler's post until the dog has passed the post (after the outrun,
lift and fetch).  One of the obstacles is a holding pen -- the dog has
to move the stock into the pen and hold them there for about a minute.
Then there's the pen at the end. Advanced has the same elements as
intermediate, except the course is longer, and the handler's movement
is more restricted. The other courses also get vastly complicated as
you go from started to advanced.

1.  References

SHEEP! Magazine
Rt. 1
Helenville WI 53137

The Working Border Collie, Inc. (bimonthly magazine)
14933 Kirkwood Road
Sidney, Ohio 45365
[phone]

The Ranch Dog Trainer (magazine)
Rt. 1, Box 21
Koshkonong MO 56592

Holmes, John.  _The Farmer's Dog_.  Order from SHEEP!

Jones, H. Glyn.  _A Way of Life_.  Order from SHEEP!
  H. Glyn Jones talks to Barbara C. Collins.

Karrasch, Dick.  _Training a Stockdog: For Beginners_.  Wondereye
Farm, Rt. 1, Box 42, Vandiver AL 35176.

O'Reilly, Chuck.  _Training Working Livestock Dogs_.  Rt. 4, Box 33B,
Red Wind MN 55066.

Robertson, Pope.  _Anybody Can Do It_.  Rovar Publ. Co., 522 East 2nd
St., Elgin TX 78621.

Templeton, John and Matt Mundell.  _Working Sheep Dogs_.  Order from
SHEEP!

There are many videos listed in the back of the magazines.  There is
also a wide variety of breed specific books relative to the breed of
dog you are interested in. Please write to the appropriate parent club
for details.  In addition, both the American Herding Breeds
Association and the Australian Shepherd Club of America offer herding
trials and their own titles.

There is an electronic mailing list devoted to herding issues.
Contact Terri Hardwick at [e-mail] for information on
how to join the list.


F.  Championships.

1.  Dual or Triple Championships

Currently three titles awarded by the AKC go into making up the DCH
and TCH titles.  These are:

CH     - Champion of Record.
OTCH   - Obedience Trial Champion.
FCH    - Field Trial Champion.

These three titles can be combined in the following manner:

DCH    - One of the following combinations:
         CH + OTCH, CH + FCH, OTCH + FCH

TCH    - CH + OTCH + FCH

Any dog who is a DCH or especially a TCH is an outstanding
representation of the breed.  If the DCH is one half Champion of
Record this is a dog that most breeders would give their eye teeth to
breed to.

NB: HCH is a very new title, so the AKC rule books have not yet come
out detailing the possibly new combinations for dual and triple (and
quadruple!)  championships.

2.  Title notation

Certain titles go before the dog's registered name, others go after.
Championship titles go before the name; non-championship titles go
after the name.

There are also orderings within the champion and non-champion titles.
If a dog also has a Amateur Field Championship that title is placed in
front of its name, in addition to the other titles (e.g., CH), but
behind them if they exist.

At an AKC event, a dog may be listed only with its AKC-recognized
titles.  Therefore, it may not have all of its titles listed in the
catalogue for the show.  Outside of AKC sponsorship, all of the titles
that a dog has earned may be listed.


G.  Other AKC Titles.

1.  AKC Canine Good Citizen Test

(from the AKC pamphlet)
"The purpose of the Canine Good Citizen Test is to demonstrate
that the dog , as a companion of man, can be a respected member of the
community, and can be trained and conditioned always to behave in the
home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs, in a manner
that will reflect credit on the dog.  The Canine Good Citizen Test is
not a competitive program, but rather a program of certification; it
seeks to identify and recognize officially those dogs that possess the
attributes that enable them to serve effectively as personal
companions and as members in good standing with the community."

  * Evaluated on appearance and willingness to be groomed and
    examined, reaction to approach of a stranger.

  * Evaluated on acceptance of a stranger in a natural everyday
    situation: owner and judge shake hands, talk.  Dog must not show
    signs of resentment or shyness and must remain in sit.

  * Must demonstrate that dog is under control in walking.  Heeling is
    not required, but dog must not lag or forge.

  * Demonstrate walking through a crowd.  Dog may show some interest
    in the people, but remain calmly with owner.

  * Must demonstrate that the dog will allow a stranger to approach
    and pet it.  Dog must remain sitting.

  * Demonstrates sit and down on command by owner.

  * Demonstrates stay.  Owner walks 20 feet away then returns.
    Must maintain position until released.

  * Demonstrate good behavior around another dog.  Should show no more
    than casual interest.

  * Reaction to distractions: sudden noises, animated talking and
    backslapping, a jogger, shopping cart, or bicycle passing closely
    by.  Dog may show interest, curiousity, momentary startle but no
    panic, aggression, nor barking.

  * Demonstrate being left alone: fastened to a fifteen foot line and
    owner is out of sight for 5 minutes.  No whining, barking, or
    howling.


H.  AKC Breed Clubs.

There are a number of breed clubs, affiliated with AKC that focus on
particular breeds.  Besides promoting their breed, they also sponsor
specialties for their breed (facilitating major-point shows, for
example).

Many breed clubs require sponsors to become a member.  They want you
to learn from other breeders.  If you go to a show and become friends
with a breeder and talk to some others, you will get sponsors quickly.
Breeders like to be a mentor to a new member.  If you hang around long
enough and really start asking a lot of questions on the spot
(preferably when they are not nervous about being next in the ring)
you'll become quickly accepted.  Find a breeder you want to get your
next puppy from and talk with them a lot.

A sponsor is another breeder that has talked to you and told you about
the ethics and looked at you to make sure you are not likely to become
a puppy mill breeder.  They are looking at you to make sure you are
trying to improve the breed and you are going to be responsible about
breeding and showing.

Most if not all breed clubs have a code of ethics that members must
adhere to.

Many AKC breed clubs have their own certificates and titles.  For
example, the Labrador Retriever Club has the WC (Working Certificate)
title that is very similar to the AKC JH title.

There are other breed clubs that are NOT affiliated with the AKC, for
various reasons.  Examples include the Australian Shepherd Club of
America.

----------------
This file is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
----------------
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From: [e-mail] (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,news.answers
Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Bloodhounds FAQ
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Archive-name: dogs-faq/bloodhounds

This is the breed-specific FAQ for Bloodhounds.  It is not posted on a
regular basis, but may be obtained via anonymous ftp at pit-manager.mit.edu
under /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/bloodhounds. Or, send email to
[e-mail] with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/bloodhounds

in the subject line, leaving the body empty.

AUTHOR

Cindy Tittle Moore, 24 March 1992.

DESCRIPTION

Bloodhounds are the largest and most powerful of the hound family.
They weigh up to 110lbs/50kg and stand as much as 27in/69cm at the
shoulders.  They have a very expressively wrinkled face with
pronounced flews and dewlaps (lips and throat), giving them a most
solemn expression.  The coat is thin, hard and short.  Colors are
black and tan, tawny, or red and tan ("liver" is sometimes used
instead of "tan").  The eyes are neither sunken nor prominent,
although the excess skin may pull the lower eyelids down.  The ears
hang low and are long and soft.  They are a relatively rare breed; you
will only see a few, if any, at most dog shows.

AKC Official Bloodhound Standard (partial):

General Character: The Bloodhound possesses, in a most marked degree,
every point and characteristic of those dogs which hunt together by
scent (Sagaces).  He is very powerful and stands over more ground than
is usual with hounds of other breeds [that is, he should not be
short-coupled].  The skin is thin to the touch and extremely loose;
this being more especially about the head and neck, where it hangs in
deep folds.

Height: The mean average height of adult dogs is twenty-six inches,
and adult bitches twenty-four inches.  Dogs usually vary from 25
inches to 27 inches and bitches from 23 to 25 inches; but in either
case the greater height [up to the limit stated] is to be preferred,
provided that character and quality are also combined.

Weight: The mean average weight of adult dogs, in fair condition, is
90 lbs and of adult bitches 80 lbs.  Dogs attain the weight of 110
lbx, bitches 100 lbs.  The greater weights are to be preferred,
provided (as in the case of height) that quality and proportion are
also combined.
...
Temperament: In temperament he is extremely affectionate, neither
quarrelsome with companions nor with other dogs.  His nature is
somewhat shy, and equally sensitive to kindness or correction by his
master.

Head:  The head is narrow in proportion to its length, and long in
proportion to the body, tapering but slightly from the temples to the
end of the muzzle, thus (when viewed from above and in front) having
the appearance of being flattened at the sides and of being nearly
equal in width throughout its entire length.  In profile the upper
outline of the skull is nearly in the same plane as that of the
foreface.  The length from end of nose to stop (midway between the
eyes) should be not less than that from stop to back of occipital
protuberance (peak).  The entire length of head from the posterior
part of the occipital protuberance to the end of the muzzle should be
twelve inches or more in dogs, eleven inches or more in bitches.

Skull: The skull is long and narrow, with the occipital peak very
pronounced.  The brows are not prominent, although, owing to the
deep-set eyes, they may have that appearance.

Foreface: The foreface is long, deep, and of even width throughout,
with square outline when seen in profile.
...
[description of sound body and colorings deleted]

RECOGNIZED

American Kennel Club
Australian National Kennel Club
Federation Cynologique Internationale,
Canadian Kennel Club
Kennel Club of Great Britain
United Kennel Club

HISTORY

Bloodhounds are an ancient breed, and its origins are unclear.
However, in the 7th century, St. Hubert (patron saint of the hunter)
and his monks had an extensive hand in developing the breed.
Bloodhounds today are still registered with FCI as _chiens du St.
Hubert_.  The name "bloodhound" is derived from the term "blooded
hound," meaning a hound of pure breeding.

Bloodhounds are extensively associated with royalty: William the
Conquerer arrived in England with several bloodhounds.  Bloodhounds
were often given as gifts among royalty and nobility.  For almost
seven hundred years, the St. Hubert Monastery sent a pair of black and
tan Bloodhounds to the King of France each year.  These hounds and the
white Talbot hounds are considered the ancestors of modern-day
Bloodhounds.  The former died out by the French Revolution after their
popularity plummeted when Charles IX favored the white hounds.  Modern
Bloodhounds are descended from the hounds that William the Conqueror
brought to Britain.

It was not until about the 16th century that the bloodhound was used
to track man.  They were regarded as large game hunters before then:
deer, etc.  Their testimony was so highly regarded that they had the
legal right to follow a trail anywhere, including into homes.

As need grew for smaller, faster hound dogs, the Bloodhound was
crossed with a variety of breeds to produce Harriers, Beagles and
others, all of which owe their nose to the Bloodhounds.  The use of
bloodhounds declined due to increasing population and decreasing game
area until there were very few left.  The introduction of dog shows in
1859 revitalized the breed.  More companionable animals, suitable for
showing, resulted.

In 1898, Bloodhound breeders began to promote manhunting trials as
sport.  The only animals available for this were those who had been
bred for show and companion for many years; yet their noses were as
keen as ever.

Foxhounds have been crossbred into Bloodhounds several times,
especially after WWII, when the stock was severely depleted in
Britain.  This ancestry sometimes shows up as white markings on
Bloodhounds although the markings may also be throwbacks to the white
Talbot hounds.  Such markings do not disqualify from show so long as
they are confined to the chest, toes, and base of tail.

Contrary to popular wisdom, Bloodhounds were not actually used to
trail runaway slaves in the US.  Those dogs were usually mongrel
crosses and of vicious temperament, which the Bloodhound does not
posess.  _Uncle Tom's Cabin_, the book and the movie, in particular
gives an exceedingly inaccurate depiction of Bloodhounds.

Mantrailing has enjoyed a steady, athough by no means explosive,
increase in modern day law enforcement and search and rescue.  Trails
performed by Bloodhounds are permissible evidence in court.

CHARACTERISTICS AND TEMPERAMENT

Bloodhounds are not for everyone.  Due to generous flews, they can
fling saliva 20 feet with one shake of their head.  Their enormous
size, food requirements, vet bills and inherently short lifespan make
them dubious companions for the average dog-lover.  As a puppy, the
Bloodhound will grow four to seven pounds and one-half to one inch in
height *per week*.  As is common with large dogs, they live from 8 to
10 years.

Bloodhounds are friendly, often very good with children.  When they
find someone at the end of the trail, they are likely to lunge at them
-- to plant wet slobbery kisses (their specialty) all over them.
Criminals often turn themselves in on the spot rather than face
Bloodhounds, whether to escape the kisses or in the mistaken belief of
their ferocity is sometimes hard to tell!

Bloodhounds are very determined.  They are aggressive in the sense
that they will want to finish trails, and that they can be hard to
call off once on a track.  They can be difficult to train off-leash
for this reason.  The pendulous skin over their ears and eyes will
fall down over their eyes when they lower their head to trail,
effectively blinding them.  Because of this and their determination,
Bloodhounds are usually run on leash for their own safety.

Bloodhounds can make an amazing variety of sounds.  They can bay
expressively, howl and whine, all in melodious tones.  The neighbors
may not appreciate this, however.

SPECIAL MEDICAL PROBLEMS

As with any large dog, Bloodhounds are prone to hip dysplasia.  They
have short lives, as is also common with large breeds.  Gastric bloat,
or torsion, can be a problem for some Bloodhounds.

REFERENCES

1.  Books

Appleton. _The First Bloodhound Handbook_. 1960. $35. **

Brey and Reed.  _The Complete Bloodhound_. 1987. $19.95. **

Brey, Catharine F. and Lena F. Reed.  _The New Complete Bloodhound_.
Howell Book House, New York (Maxwell Maxmillian, Toronto).  1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-077-1 (hardback).
  New revised version of the classic _The Complete Bloodhound_.  A
  definitive recounting of bloodhounds: history, exploits, training,
  and breeding.  A must in the library of anyone interested in the
  breed or in search and rescue in general.

Brough.  _The Bloodhound and its Use in Tracking Criminals_.

Caras, Roger. _Yankee: The Inside Story of a Champion Bloodhound_. **
G.P. Putnam's Sons, New York.  1979. $15.95.

Owen.  _How to Raise and Train a Bloodhound_. 1964. (paper) $3.95. **

Owen.  _Bloodhounds_. 1990.

Tolhurst, William D. with Lena F. Reed.  _Manhunters!  Hounds of the
Big T_.  Hound Dog Press, 10705 Woodland Avenue, Puyallup, WA 98373.
1984.  ISBN: 0-9617723-0-1 (hardback).
  Tolhurst is a Search and Rescue volunteer in upstate New York.  This
  book recounts his experiences using bloodhounds in trailing.  Many
  fascinating stories.  Tolhurst includes a section on training a dog
  to locate dead bodies.

Whitney. _Bloodhounds and How to Train Them_. 1947. $120. **


** Out of print, but stocked by 4-M Enterprises, Inc., 1280 Pacific
Street, Union City, CA 94587 (catalogue).

2.  Breed Rescue Organizations

Bloodhounds West * Breed Rescue
20372 Laguna Canyon Road
Laguna Beach, CA 92651
[phone]

3.  Breeders

Disclaimer: These breeders have been recommended in good faith by
readers of rec.pets.dogs.  However, you are still responsible for
verifying that a particular breeder meets your needs to your
satisfaction.

Bojangles Bloodhounds
Bob and Jane Mangles
14 Manfre Road
Watsonville, CA 95076
408-728-2717

4.  Breed Clubs

American Bloodhound Club
Ed Kilby, Corresponding Secretary
1914 Berry Lane, Daytona Beach, FLA 32014

American Bloodhound Club Bulletin
Mary Michener
P.O. Box 974
Ellensburg, WA 98926
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From: [e-mail] (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,news.answers
Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Collies FAQ
Supersedes: <dogs-faq/[e-mail]>
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Date: 5 Dec 1992 06:02:22 GMT
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X-Last-Updated: 1992/05/19

Archive-name: dogs-faq/collies

This is the breed-specific FAQ for Collies.  It is not posted on a
regular basis, but may be obtained via anonymous ftp at
pit-manager.mit.edu under /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/collies.
Or, send email to [e-mail] with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/collies

in the subject line, leaving the body empty.

AUTHOR

Marla Belzowski, 30 March 1992.

DESCRIPTION

(exerpts from the Collie Club of America Standard.)

General Character -- The collie is a lithe, strong, responsive, active
dogs, carrying no useless timber, standing naturally straight and
firm.  The deep, moderately wide chest shows strength, the sloping
shoulders and well-bend hocks indicate speed and grace, and the face
shows high intelligence.  The collies presents an impressive, proud
picture of true balance.  In general, no part of a collies seems out
of proportion to any other part.

The head properties are of great importance.  When looking at a collie
the size of the dog's head is inclined to lightness and should never
appear massive.  Both in front and profile view the head bears a
general resemblance to a well-blunted lean wedge, being smooth and
clean in outline and nicely balanced in proportion.  On the sides it
tapers gradually and smoothly from the ears to the end of the black
nose, without being flared out in backskull ("cheeky") or pinched in
muzzle ("snipy").  In profile view the top of the backskull and top of
the muzzle lie in two approximately parallel straight planes of equal
length, divided by a very slight but perceptable stop or break.  A
mid-point between the inside corners of the eyes (which is the center
of a correctly placed stop) is the center of balance in length of
head.  The end of the smooth, well-rounded muzzle is blunt but not
square.  The underjaw is strong, clean-cut and the depth of skull from
the brow to the under part of the jaw is not excessive.  The teeth are
of good size, meeting in a sissors bite.  Overshot or undershot jaws
are undesirable, and penalized.  There is a very slight prominence of
the eyebrows.  The backskull is flat, without receding either
laterally or backwards and the occipital bone is not highly peaked.
Because of the importance of the head characteristics, prominent head
faults are very severly penalized.

Eyes should be almond-shaped, of medium size and should never appear
to be large or prominent.  The color is dark and the eye doesn't show
a yellow ring or have a sufficiently prominent haw to affect the dog's
expression.  In blue-merles, dark eyes are preferable but either or
both eyes may be merle or china in color without specific penalty.
The eyes should give a "sweet" expression.  Eye faults are heavily
penalized.

Ears are in proportion to the size of the head and, if they are
carried properly and unquestionably "break" naturally, are seldom too
small.  When in repose the ears are folded lengthwise and thrown back
into the frill.  On the alert they are drawn well up on the backskull
and are carried about three-quarters erect, with about one-fourth of
the ear tipping or "breaking" forwards.  A dog with pricked ears or
low ears cannot show true expression and is penalized accordingly.

Neck is firm, clean, muscular, sinewy and heavily frilled.  It is
fairly long, carried upright with a slight arch at the nape and
imparts a proud, upstanding appearance showing off the frill.

Body is firm, hard and muscular, a trifle long in proportion to the
height.  The ribs are well-rounded behind the well-sloped shoulders
and the chest is deep extending to the elbows.  The back is strong and
level, supported by powerful hips and thighs and the croup is sloped
to give a well-rounded finish.  The loin is powerful and slightly
arched.

Legs are strong and muscular with a fair amount of bone.  Narrow and
wide placement is penalized.  A cowhocked or straight stifle is
penalized.  The feet are small and oval shaped.